And I would drive 1,000 miles

We’re already halfway through August, but before I crack on with all things this summer, I need to reverse up slightly. 

I’ve always loved a classic car, years ago I succumbed to my love and bought a British Racing Green, Triumph Spitfire. It was my baby… ten days later it was on the back of a rescue truck getting towed from Sainsbury’s carpark. I adored that car, but dear god it was an insane money pit, largely due to the cowboys I bought it off, but also let’s face it, I can do an oil change but that’s about it. After a year or so, I felt the eternal squeeze on my wallet, and sold her to a dealer.  But my respect for those lines and the beauty of an old car, remains. As a child my parents had an old Morris Minor, I don’t know how old it was, but it had a split windscreen, leather seats and those things that pop out the side when you indicate. I loved that car as well, and the fun we had driving through Kent. My brother and I would egg our father on (he needed little encouragement), to floor the accelerator so we could take off and bang our heads on the roof as we went over a hump backed bridge. Oh, those beautiful old cars… my favourite still being a 1955 Porsche Speedster. And frankly about the only good thing about Top Gun.  

A friend’s father that I used to work with, had a stunning and very valuable vintage Alfa Romeo. I had a go in it once, and I’ll never forget the smell, the lovely old leather goggles and hitting the pedal going down the Mentmore straight. A badge on the dash was my very first intro to all things Mille Miglia. 

That beautiful Alfa Romeo

The Mille Miglia (1000 miles) originally began in 1927 but was ‘reborn’ in 1977. In 1957 it stopped for those intervening years, due to a tragically fatal car accident with a Ferrari, that killed the driver and also several spectators. Known as the most beautiful car race in the world, it is now formed of a series of timed trials, and a gruelling figure-eight course on normal public roads connecting Brescia and Rome. A total of 1,000 miles.  The classic cars (not the modern groupings) have to have been registered during the original 1927-1957 era of the race,

It’s been on my ‘bucket list’ for a long time, but those chrome hub caps never quite lined up. This year they did. One of the time trial legs came through Santa Maria Degli Angeli (close to Assisi) and about the nearest point to home for me. I blocked the day out in my diary and did a ton of research into the final route and timings, as these are often only announced a day or two before, and I wanted to pick my spot. 

I won’t forget the deep throaty roar of a long line of Ferraris’ passing in front of the duomo, or the fun I had with the official photographer, who when he saw my Leica camera, let me into some of the cool spots to take photos, and one of the officials who also allowed me to lie on the road now and then to get the right angle, as the cars drove past. It was heaven let me tell you. Some photos below, enjoy… I mean just LOOK at them. 

Next year, all being well I will head to Siena as that city is breathtaking, and I’d love to see the race again from a different perspective.  I won’t regurgitate all the info, but if you’re interested, the main Mille Miglia page is here: https://1000miglia.it/en/

Lyrics by Paul Roberts, Sung by Sniff ‘n’ the Tears

Now then, the rest of summer, what can I say, other than what has been a constant strain on just about everyone in Europe and way beyond.  The extreme heat really started in mid-June and it has, apart from a slack handful of days, been absolutely relentless, I never realised it was possible to sweat so much. The summer of 2025 was bad enough but this year has been brutal, with day after day in the 40’s. Right now, the only good thing I can think of to come out of this summer’s batshit crazy heatwave is that my gas bill was tiny.

I’m now so deliriously tired from the continual heat here in Umbria, that I just lie awake half the night and pop into the bathroom for a cold shower every now and then. The heat has been biblical, last week alone it was nudging 50 in the roasting sunshine and typical temps on my veranda are well into the mid 40’s. The other day the gate buzzer went, I have a t-shirt by the front door so I can be decent when I go outside, but I clean forgot anything for my feet, a few steps into the sunlight and I was ouching and ‘shitting demons it’s like hotplates.’ as I hopped down the tiled stairs to get my parcel from a now laughing Amazon delivery lady. ‘Ciao Marie… pachettino… sei caldo?’  Ouch, ouch, ouch all the way back upstairs again. 

The ferries have stopped going to one of the islands on the lake, as the water is too shallow, and there is a dredger trying to keep the main route open. One of the fishing villages near me – their harbour is now completely dry. Livelihoods are struggling all over, here is no different.

Last week, we were hit by more wildfires – the fire spent nearly two days, ripping through olive groves and destroying two farmhouses just a few miles from me. The smoke in the air turned the sky a colour as if it was a scene from Bladerunner. All the while two planes and a helicopter worked back and forth until the light went, scooping water from the lake. It was barely light the next day when I could hear the dull thud of the blades overhead as they started work again. We’ve even had severe heat induced lightning which was pretty fierce, and a tornado. It’s like Armageddon has arrived. I keep checking the forecast, hoping soon it will be below 30, some much needed rain for the crops, and a little sleep. 

Ironically it was so cloudy the evening of the solar eclipse and despite having the requisite specs, I saw not a sausage. Although a few hours later when the sky had cleared and I was able to watch a few Perseid meteors from my little veranda. 

The forecast is sweltering for at least another week- 10 days, and then I hope it will start to cool down. If you ever had any doubt about climate change (which I don’t btw), this year must surely be the proof you were seeking. 

Updated playlist / Give this a listen

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Build me up, Buttercup

During my full apartment renovations and in between painting ceilings and walls, I fell into what I can only describe as the sequel of ‘Diplomacy’ that is hiring Italian builders and the myriad of ‘would you believe it’…. consequences.

 

Buying any kind of property here or anywhere else, usually means you find some hidden treats, that the previous owner kept out of sight and whoops failed to mention (and I’m whacking the sarcasm klaxon here). When I say treats, I mean bloody effing nightmares. Mine so far hasn’t quite reached the levels of incubus, but the bill has slowly been creeping up, along with some other unexpected joys.

 

Casting my mind back from the 43c heat of mid-June last summer, to January of this, and like a lot of the Northern hemisphere, it’s also freezing cold at night. I’m near the fourth largest lake in Italy, only a few buckets short of Lake Como, apparently; which does bring in fog and some icy gusts, although generally it can be a little milder than the surrounding mountains.

Umbrian Hill Town in a sea of fog

The builders started doing some of the outside work as it’s a quieter time of year for them and they could fit me in. They were repairing the underside of my entrance stairs. Water had got in around the guttering, and the mortar was spalling and cracking in places. There is also a lovely Heath Robinson special of old piping to take the runoff into a flower bed. Which is also. obviously leaking. Each day that the fog lingered it seemed that we uncovered extras and even though I had sensibly built a buffer into my budget, my eyebrow was already twitching.

Damn that leaky gutter

Then, I had been gradually meeting my neighbours, the men for some reason tend to show themselves a little later as they may be at work. The first one was my downstairs’ neighbours, worse half. He’s a miserable git and I occasionally hear him shouting at her through the floor (side note, I can also hear him taking a whizz due the acoustics of tiled flooring).  But in complete male chauvinist style and … bearing in mind I’d at that point been here over 2 months, and he’s never so much as knocked on the door and said hello, but he deigned to tell the builder that my stair gutter had leaked onto his wall and caused some damp inside the house. He is correct, but he told the builder to fix it, without so much as mentioning any of this to me. The builder comes upstairs to discuss this with me; he looked sheepish and asked me what I wanted to do. I said, neighbour needs to speak to me not you, mumbled something which sounded remarkably like what a dick, and made him a coffee. Ten minutes later my buzzer went, dick… I mean neighbour was standing there looking shifty. I introduced myself and extended my hand. He looked ever increasingly awkward (busted more like) but I said I’d get his side fixed outside, inside was up to him. Really, he should have got this sorted ages ago with my predecessor, but we all know that’s not how this works. My apartment now, my problem.

Moving onto hiccup no.2, the previous owner liked to place enormous and very heavy terracotta planters on the steps, I’d moved them all except one massive one as they’re just in the way coming up and down. However, the biggie, had cracked some tiles and let some more water in. Guess where the water is coming in… yep, dick… I mean downstairs. Tiles all had to be replaced and later a waterproof membrane. The planters went for a one-way trip to the tip, both broken and hideous. I did however strike gold at the tip and found a whole pile of demijohns, they are now cleaned and resplendent on my veranda.

 

House is freedom

House is love

Under the stars, and the skies above

Lyrics and Song by: Cafe Du Midi

By that point, I’m freezing going in and out to see progress and take the lads coffees and donuts. It’s about 2 – 3 weeks until the new kitchen arrived and the builder merry-go-round started all over again. But get this, they would not take the old kitchen out, nor could they take it to the tip, I had to arrange for it to be collected. The tip office is only open first Tuesday of the month (sounds like a good gig, ha ha), so I was hoping that would get sorted in time, to avoid becoming another bureaucratic treat to unravel. Also, the kitchen peeps wouldn’t take the tiles off and fit the new tiling. The old kitchen when I arrived last November, was sporting some heavily patterned horrors with a toadstool relief, by that I mean it sticks out and looks even more annoying and ugly. The oven was broken, even the door didn’t close and required a stool to keep it shut. The builder was charged with getting rid of the mushroom tiles and the re-tile. I gave him my old fridge and the dishwasher as well, otherwise they would have just ended up at the tip.

 

I knew there was going to be some dust and noise when the tiles came off, but holy Christ on a sandal wearing bike, it was indeed biblical and bloody relentless. I’d taped up all the doors and yet still the dust creeped into the rest of the house. I thought the hammer drill was going to do something other than shake a few pictures askew on the walls. But then the fun started.

 

Let the games commence

When I chose and paid for the kitchen I went to a showroom that had been recommended, I was very recently in Italy, and my Italian was pretty threadbare. As it turned out when I went to the showroom, one of their staff had lived in Ireland for 10 years and his kids were born there. His English was excellent (this will become important later); we had a good laugh and the kitchen got specked and paid for. I asked him 4 times if this included everything – taps, power points, everything hooked up and working. Yes, absolutely he said each time. When they called to confirm dates, he even said they needed two days as day one is all the cabling, sockets etc. So imagine my surprise when 3 hours later the two kitchen fitters knocked on the internal door and said we’re finished. What then followed doesn’t entirely warrant repeating as it wasn’t the guy’s fault. But they did let slip this isn’t the first time its happened.  However, I had a lovely set of units, but the oven, taps, lights and zero sockets were connected, the taps were sitting in a box on the counter. The kitchen company said oh no, we don’t do that…. Ah ha… but I literally stood my ground for over 3 weeks, while I flat out refused to sign their work order as ‘complete’ and to pay the second instalment. I don’t have what I paid for. Dear god they tried every coercive trick in the book to get me to buckle, including sending the boss around to gas light and be rude to me.  But I fastidiously refused all their games and time wasting to wear me down. I had, by this point got the builders who took the tiles off, back in – between them and a crazy Romanian sparkie, who was absolutely amazing and I renamed him The Maestro, to fit in the sockets, taps etc and connect the gas and give me a working kitchen and re-tile.  I refused to pay the kitchen company bill, unless they agreed to deduct the cost of the builders retro fit. Eventually and after a lot of calls and site visits, where they tripped up their own colleagues claims and promises, I got the bill reduced.

 

Ta da…

But all of this has been to get the apartment to a point where it is finished, where I can relax and enjoy the lovely space, lake views and my veranda. I finally finished in mid-April, when Team Romania came back and ripped out the old shower room and fitted a new one. At one point it looked like somewhere between an East End lav and an Egyptian tomb.

 

As, this was now their third job at my place, we were getting to know each other, and I knew who took sugar, who liked a slice of homemade cake and also that they were invariably late. They would play music from their own home country and one day one of them brought his accordion to play some tunes. I also subjected them to a lot of my dodgy playlist, I have a lasting memory of the three of them in the tiny shower room with me in the doorway teaching them to sing, ‘Gold’ (made even funnier as one of them was super tall and one a complete shorty like me).

Nothing left to make me feel small

Luck has left me standing so tall

Gold

Always believe in your soul

You’ve got the power to know

You’re indestructible

 

Lyrics by: Gary & Martin Kemp, sung by Spandau Ballet

 

Since then, I have stripped and painted the veranda and sealed those tiles, decorated the spare bedroom and cleared and replanted the garden and pruned my first olive tree. I have a family of geckos living alongside me and they’re not eating nearly enough mosquitoes.

 

Moral of the story:

 

  • For the good ones there is always homemade cake, fresh coffee and 80s pop classics.
  • Plaster dust gets everywhere. I shit you not.

 Updated playlist / Give this a listen:

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/3Gvu1BmDkmjTljKnraEm1d?si=mkKZel3ZQb-WK79Doz4Yag&pi=pi=3.142

Follow me at: @write.upmystreet

Vroom, Boom, Boom, Boom

Am drifting back to an earlier Clint inspired post here, but you know when you watch an old spaghetti western, when the desert heat is palpable in those hot, dusty and sweat drenched, exhausted faces; that lingering quiet in the highest temperature of midday, just as a dried husk of tumbleweed rolls and bounces past. 

Well, in case you’d not been reading the news, Italy is in the midst of an unprecedented heatwave since early June. It’s normally not this hot until mid-July, but day after day it’s been hitting the 40s centigrade or very close. Your skin feels like the moisture is being desiccated by the second and on top of that the mosquitoes have been out in force. My back looks like a join the dots map of Italy and I’ve been eyeing the spare cheese grater as a means to reach those places in the middle of your back, you know the ones where only those with arms like an orang-utan could have a hope of reaching. 

Once the sun sets and the air cools a few meagre degrees, windows are opened to let in any semblance of cool night air. I’ve got a fan running non-stop to keep my two cats at a comfortable temperature. Although after one of them took to sleeping in the bidet I bought her a pet cool mat.   On the upside my laundry bill is minimal as unless you are going out, seriously who wants to wear anything more than the essentials in this heat. 

In other news I’ve been sweating my way through appointments at the local municipality office as I went through applying for Italian residency, while on the other side of the security screen there is a whirring A/C, my face is dripping. I’m literally sweating like a nervous dog. But some good news, I am now officially a resident here, and one step closer to Italian health care and have been able to sack off hiring a car and buy one. Having finally stopped getting rinsed each month, I’ve splashed out and bought a little Fiat 500 in pale blue. I am pretty sure Avis are glad to see the back of me, as two weeks ago I was driving down the hair pin bends from my apartment to the main road below when an old man was coming the other way and didn’t see me swerving out the way or honking my horn like a loon, and smashed into the front of my car. My driver’s side door wouldn’t open, my leg was whacked against the steering column (nothing cut or broken so phew…) and I now have a smashing (‘scuse the pun) bruise and a bump on my shin. But thank the car hire gods for reminding me to take the extra insurance as all covered, as it was close to a write off. I had a few days of feeling the shock and felt a bit wobbly inside, but I spent the weekend making deserts for a friend’s barbecue and helping out with the catering at a pizza party, which helped to take my mind off it all. 

I’ve also been house hunting and had found a lovely apartment made an offer which wasn’t accepted but was told the owner would only take full price. So, I upped it and then he decided he couldn’t be arsed to sell and took it off the market (silent inward screaming).  

Back to the drawing board… and I found a little Cielo-Terra (means sky – earth) in a hill town. About 500 years old and restored, lovely … however, the ground floor rooms were so damp the plaster was coming off, the owner is an architect so he should know better but he not only hadn’t got permission for all the alterations he’d done to a very historic building, but he’d also neglected to get a certificate of habitability. We all know what happened next… back to the drawing board. 

I’ve now found another apartment near the lake here in Umbria, and the other day got the magnificent news that my offer has been signed and accepted and should be moving in late September. It needs a good decorate and freshen up, but I will have all the time to do it up and make it home.  I will be sitting on that veranda with the lake in the distance having a well-deserved Aperol.

It’s 3 months since, I arrived, and it’s been baking hot, tiring and at times bewildering; the cats are slowly accepting the new billet, (little do they know we’re moving again) and Jack as per the pic below, has taken to sleeping in the bidet when it gets super hot.

But my Italian is slowly improving thanks to weekly lessons, and I have not once regretted coming here and taking that enormous leap. So, you could say, car crashes aside, Italy so far has my heart.

(I still remember the sound, Click, boom, boom, boom

Feel my heart, it goes like this, boom, boom, boom)

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